THIS IS THE CHEAPEST and probably BEST solution to replace a print surface on a large Delta printer.
This is a pretty simple fix!
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To do this, you will need:
1 EA 2 PACK 12 in round glass – about 305MM or right at 12 inches.
3 EA 40MM Buttonhead M3 Cap screws – Here’s a kit
Some Masking Tape
and a razor blade
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Background:
My friend’s printer arrived with broken glass. HE3D told him to pound sand. I wedged a square mirror in for a few months and got by until it broke.
I found 12 inch round glass on Amazon and took a chance. Used the Scratch Method and BOOM! I was in business for 12 bucks and still had a spare on hand!
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Step 1: Prep the bed
Get your screw kit out.. you need to lower the profile of the existing bolts just a bit..
Replace the silver with the black..
Add 2 layers of masking tape to the bed.
Cut the holes out to let the new bolt heads through.
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Step 2: Prep the Glass!
Scrape the rubber nubs off with a razor.
Scratch it up real good with sand paper, install and level.
Step 3: Finish Prep.
Calibrate your printer..
Step 4: Lube it up!
Heat it up and lube with some Elmer’s Glue Stick https://amzn.to/2ndUig6
And get printing!
There is a ton of other useful stuff on Makersteve.com and more coming every week.
Be sure to check out my Ultimate Build Guide for Creality Ender 3
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Happy Printing,
Steve
I realize this is an old post… But why the masking tape?
It is an old post for sure. I print with bare glass and glue these days. Masking tape is a common adhesive for your print. There are times on bare glass or glue that your print can get super stuck. Canned air or a rife in the freezer can get your print unstuck.
I’ve seen masking tape for adhesion before. But this masking tape is under the bed. Didn’t know if this was trying to prevent a short or something.
I ask because I recently put a round mirror on my K280 without masking tape and, after a few hours, the main board died. Wasn’t sure if this could have caused an electrical problem somehow.
Masking tape is very common for makers startling out. If your nozzle hits the bed it typically won’t scratch the build plate. You can use it underneath to level uneven beds. I use use Elmer’s glue stick and glass or just a magnetic bed. Both have their benefits. Tape or no tape.. It had nothing to do with the main board failure, IMHO.
Also.. Never leave filament in your K280 when you will not print for a while.. It will become brittle within a week and you will have a heck of a time clearing the Hotend. I don’t use my K280s anymore, they just sit sad and neglected. I’m an all Creality shop with 15 printers going 24/7 most of the time.