Ultimate Build Guide for Creality CR-10S / CR-10 – Step by Step – A MakerSteve Special Report

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This build guide contains the out of the box upgrades I highly recommend for any CR-10.

This is my second CR-10S – the first I upgraded from a CR-10 to an S.  I bought this “used” from the 3d-printer-online store on eBay.  The box arrived with broken glass but 3d-printer-online quickly agreed to send me a new one.  Total cost was under $300.00 with some fixin’s I had to apply.

Being used, this printer definitely had an easter egg hidden within (which we can discuss later), but I definitely benefited from someone else’s misfortune.

New on Amazon, they can be had for a little over $500.00 with free shipping.

Difficult: Easy

Price: $300ish used, $500ish new.

Time to complete: 1-3 hours (there will be some troubleshooting)

Print Area: 300x300x400mm (great size for the money.)

Features: Insulated Heated bed, Great Creality stability, Resume on power-failure, Flexible, Removable Print Surface, Ready to print!

Satisfaction: Complete!

Mandatory (IMHO) 3D Printed Upgrades

Cable clip 

Pressure fitting Clip

Basic Stringing Test – For Testing!

Recommended Tools

PTFE Cutter

Digital Level

Digital Micrometer

Recommended Parts/Supplies

WD-40 Specialist Dirt and Dust Resistant Dry Lube

White Lithium Grease

Loctite Blue Stick, Medium Strength Thread Locker

CR-10/S Aluminum Extruder

Metric nut and screw assortment

Hatchbox PLA
Hatchbox PLA White (my favorite)
Elmer’s Purple Glue Stick

In the box..  broken glass.

IMAG1821

Cleaned up, slightly usedIMAG1824

Control Box and Parts box.IMAG1825

A view of the control Box.IMAG1828

Gantry Assembly.IMAG1829

Parts in the box laid out.IMAG1826

First upgrade out of the box, fix the bed leveling, in accordance with https://makersteve.com/2018/10/02/a-tale-of-two-enders-bed-level-ender-3-fix/

Unscrew all four upgraded bed leveling wheels.

IMAG1832

Top view of the hotbed plate.IMAG1833

Hey look!  An insulated bed.IMAG1834

Get your Metric nut and screw assortment out.

IMAG1835

Need four each M4 nuts for the leveling fix. IMAG1836

One on each screw coming through the hotbed.IMAG1837

All the way down and tight.IMAG1838

This one takes a little finesse, but it needs a nut also.IMAG1839IMAG1840

Sprint goes on before the hotbed strain relief.IMAG1841

Just like that.IMAG1843

Looks good.IMAG1844

Check the hotbed rollers, ensure eccentric nuts are snug but not too tight.  The eccentric nuts are the 3 nuts shown, as you turn them, they tighten the rollers to the v-slot of aluminum extrusion that comprises the frame.IMAG1845

Make sure the bed sits flat, loosen the horizontal screws all the way around.  You will probably find the bed wiggles and is not level when you push on a corner, we will fix that real quick.  Stay with me.IMAG1846

Front and back.IMAG1847

Clamp one end to your work surface and tighen the opposite corner while pushing down, then tighen each corner working your way back to the clamp.  Your frame should sit flat now.

IMAG1848

This is a great opportunity to use some Loctite Blue Stick, Medium Strength Thread Locker.  Just a dab on each screw.

IMAG1830

Now put the three remaining springs back in placeIMAG1849

Flip the hotbed over, holding the springs with all three hands and mate the hotbed back to the hotbed base.IMAG1851

Now place the gantry assembly on the base, it should balance.IMAG1853

Align the T-slot nuts as shown below so they properly seat in the v-slot of the frame.  Ensure they are loosen enough for the T-slot nuts to properly engage and lock

IMAG1854

IMAG1855

Hold the bracket in place and snug it up, but not tight, yet.IMAG1856

Loctite up your screws that go in through the bottom.IMAG1857

Position the frame just off your table enough so you can get underneath, line up the holes and screw the base to the gantry assembly.IMAG1858

Like so.IMAG1859

Other side.IMAG1860

Now tighten the T-slot nuts on the bracket, left and right.IMAG1862IMAG1863

Assemble the spool holder

IMAG1873

Connect to control box.IMAG1874

Break out some new filament and hang it.IMAG1875

Identify X-axis motor connector, X-axis endstop and Extruder.IMAG1876IMAG1878

Plug in extruderIMAG1879

X-axis endstopIMAG1880

X-axis motorIMAG1882

Identify the Z motor and cable(s).  You will have two with a CR-10S, only one with a CR-10

IMAG1883

Connect them to the motors.IMAG1884IMAG1885

Z-Axis motor connector and Z-axis endstop connector shown below.IMAG1886

Connect the X-axis endstopIMAG1889

Make sure it is inserted all the way.IMAG1890

Connect Z-axis motorIMAG1891

Connect Z-axis endstopIMAG1892

Find the two Y cables, on is for the motor, the other for the endstop.IMAG1893

Connect em up!IMAG1894

Connect the hotbed cable, it is keyed, once inserted, twist the locking ring.IMAG1895

Connect the hotend cable, it is keyed, once inserted, twist the locking ring.IMAG1897IMAG1898

Choose your voltage!IMAG1899

This is how I rock 220V in the USA!IMAG1900

Connect the filament sensor.  If you don’t want to use it there will be a little chip that is on the end of the cable.IMAG1901IMAG1902

Tighten up and align the remaining rollers… use the eccentric nuts as shown.  The rollers should not spin freely ones you are tight, do not over tighten.IMAG1903

Left side…IMAG1904

Right side… IMAG1905

Extruder assembly…  they should all roll smoothly.IMAG1906

Let’s do some preventative maintenance on the hotend.  This fix is based on The Hot End – Channel.  I know this printer was used.. I know it was returned, there had to be a reason.

New printers from the factory come with gaps between the nozzle and the PFTE tubing.. I recommend fix this for brand new machines.

Loosen the hotend compression fitting

IMAG1907

Heat up the hotendIMAG1908IMAG1909

Look at that… no good!  It was leaking.IMAG1910

Look down the throat… IMAG1911

Jam some spare PTFE tubing through.. IMAG1912

Yup.. there was a booger in there!IMAG1913

That was reason one this printer was returned.IMAG1914

Get out!IMAG1915

New nozzle in this case to ensure no issues.  If you buy replacement nozzles, ensure they are for an MK-8 Hotend!  Here they are on the Creality store on eBay.IMAG1916

Clip that PTFE backIMAG1917

All the way to the scarring on the tube.IMAG1918

Cool it down.. IMAG1919

Add some WD-40 PTFE Dry LubeIMAG1920

Get some!IMAG1921

A little down the throat… IMAG1922

Let it dryIMAG1923

Catch the drippin’s!IMAG1924

Good to go!IMAG1925

Make sure you drive the PTFE deep.. don’t stop short of the nozzle.

IMAG1926

Put the compression fitting on.. IMAG1927

Tighten it up.IMAG1929

Jam it in there until it stops.IMAG1930

If you aren’t sure, use the small wrench to press down the compression lock and push some more.IMAG1931

Just like that… IMAG1932

Clip the extruder end.IMAG1933

Spray some PTFE dry lube on a napkin and wipe the tube.. IMAG1934

Just a bit will do.IMAG1937

Look how far you need the PTFE to go into the compression fitting, don’t stop short.IMAG1938

Break out your connector locks and clips that were listed above.IMAG1939

Just need one.IMAG1940

Bad-a-bing!IMAG1941

Cable clips, I use four.IMAG1942

Gorgeous.IMAG1943

Let’s make sure it’s level and won’t bind!  See this walk-thru for more detail on leveling

https://makersteve.com/2018/03/24/manually-leveling-your-creality-cr-10-or-cr-10s-or-just-about-any-marlin-based-3d-printer/

Check the surface the printer is sitting on.. yeah, I know.. OCD.

IMAG1993

Align the gantry with the power off..  should match the upper horizontal of the frame.IMAG1994

Loosen the screws on that support the leadscrew.. they should just be snug, this will prevent binding.

IMAG1996

Verify your lead screws are generally the same distance from the frame the whole way up..  left and right side..  I use three points, top, middle, bottom.  Within a mm is good to go.

IMAG2000

Grab your Lithium Grease

IMAG1986

Put a little dabble on them lead screws.IMAG1987

I level the bed to the lowest point of the hotend to ensure the tip does not hit the surface.

IMAG2003

Manually test the motors and extruder, fan and hotend..

IMAG1944IMAG1945

All three axis.. IMAG1946IMAG1947

XIMAG1948IMAG1949

YIMAG1950IMAG1951

ZIMAG1952IMAG1953

To test the extruder, you have to heat the hotend or a safety will not allow it to move.IMAG1955IMAG1956IMAG1957

Test the fan.. IMAG1958

Heat up the nozzle… IMAG1959IMAG1960

Now move the extruder..

IMAG1954

Ready to go..IMAG1961

I prepared a mirror to replace the broken glass as shown https://makersteve.com/2018/03/25/getting-your-print-to-stick-on-your-3d-printer/

Scratch it up!

Apply some Elmer’s Purple Glue Stick

IMAG1990

IMAG1991

Heat it up… feed it with filament, you are ready to go.

 

Not a bad first layer.. IMAG2007IMAG2009

A little adjustment to retraction.  IMAG2017

Great bottom layer.

That’s it..   I will go over Aluminum Extruder and supporting rod kit installation shortly.


There is a ton of other useful stuff on Makersteve.com and more coming every week.

Be sure to check out my Ultimate Build Guide for Creality Ender 3 and the

If you find this useful, please consider purchasing products through any of the links on the page, it’s free to you and I get a little something for my time.  Or, just go shopping at Amazon or Ebay  or Gearbest.

You can also support me through Patreon or buy me a Ko-fi!

Happy Printing,

Steve

3 thoughts on “Ultimate Build Guide for Creality CR-10S / CR-10 – Step by Step – A MakerSteve Special Report

  1. Hey Steve. A great and informative tutorial from beginning to end. Glad to see you got a great deal on a 10S. I have the original as well and have since opted to get the CR10S-S4 and love it as I’m expanding the herd. Looking forward to your next stuff and Great Job again.

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