Silence your Ender 3! With Vibration Dampers

8/13/2019  – USED ENDER Printers back in stock!  I’ve bought 3.. they help you fix ’em!

Ender 3 Pro  $185.00 OBO!

Ender 3 $155.00 OBO!

Ender 5 $249.00 OBO!

CR-10 259.00 OBO!

REPLACE those bad XT60 Connectors before your Ender 3 catches fire!

I created a video on YouTube that shows my build process (if there is one) and the Ender 3 upgrades I do out of the box.

Maker Steve Ender 3 Build Part 1
Maker Steve Ender 3 Build Part 2
Maker Steve Ender 3 Build Part 3

Just finished another Ultimate Guide on building the Creality CR-10 or CR-10S 

A few months back and did a guide on how to Silence your Printer with Vibration Dampers.

The upgrade was performed on a CR-10 that required no modification.  I bought several new Enders from eBay at a pretty good deal.  Why not upgrade them as I build right out of the box?  Not so much.  For the Y-Axis, you have to cut the hotbed carrier.  Also, in the guide, I pointed out the two types of NEMA 17 Dampers, ones without nubs and ones with nubs.

Well I had plenty with nubs so I fixed em.

Difficult: Easy

Price: $5-20

Time to complete: 45 minutes

Pros: Printer will run quieter and likely improve print quality.

Cons: None that I can hear.

Satisfaction: Complete!

Parts required:

NEMA 17 Vibration Dampers:  eBay and Amazon (watch for nubs)

Metric button head assortment – You’ll need four M3x6mm screws.


Nubs on the left, none on the right.


Another view.IMAG2231

Clamp em to the table and give em a grind.IMAG2238

No Nubs!IMAG2239

Now to the task at hand!

Here’s the problem, if you put a vibration damper on the Y-Axis it moves the motor out and causes it to hit the hotbed carrier.  Luke Hatfield from the Creality Official 3D User Group has a pretty good troubleshooting guide that walks  you through this as well, without the nubs.

NOTE: Don’t install the Vibration Damper on the Y-Axis if you are not willing to bump and grind a bit.

Problem: Hotbed carrier hits motor with Vibration Damper installed..


Maker Steve marks carrier.IMAG2258

Maker Steve removes carrier by loosening the four button screws on either side.IMAG2259

And the belts holding the carrier.IMAG2260

Clamp it down.IMAG2262

Eye up the mark.IMAG2263

DeWalt it.IMAG2264

Looks good.IMAG2265

Flip and grind.IMAG2266


Test it, motor is cleared.IMAG2271

Re-attach belt.IMAG2272

So if you made it this far, you are willing to do what it takes to install the Vibration Damper on the Y-axis.  So lets do that…

Do do this, you will need shorter screws.

Remove the existing Y-Axis Motor.IMAG2254

Grab your Metric Button Head AssortmentIMAG2243

Dig out two M3x6mm screws.IMAG2244

Mount the vibration damper to the motor.IMAG2245


Adjust the belt pulley so it is out past the vibration damper.IMAG2256

Now for the X-Axis motor… the screws are hiding under the QR Code Sticker.IMAG2242

There are four, remove all of the screws.IMAG2247

You will need two left in for later, 50% chance they are the right two.IMAG2248

Pull all four screws on the motor.IMAG2249

Install a Vibration Damper as shown.IMAG2245

Adust your Belt Pully out the same distance as a Vibration Damper.IMAG2246

Mount the motor and reinstall the cover.


Two screws as shown.


And get back to printing in silence!

There is a ton of other useful stuff on and more coming every week.

Be sure to check out my Ultimate guide to troubleshooting underextrusion, ripples, waves and stringing in 3D printers

If you find this useful, please consider purchasing products through any of the links on the page, it’s free to you and I get a little something for my time.  Or, just go shopping at Amazon or Ebay  or Gearbest.

Support me and my 3D printing and goals with Patreon or by using the links on this page to start your Amazon or Ebay shopping!

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Thanks for visiting,



2 thoughts on “Silence your Ender 3! With Vibration Dampers

  1. Good tutorial. You didn’t have to cut your head bed chassis, and I am sure folks out there may not have a cutting tool, but you do have 2 other non-cutting options. 1) Shift the the Y stepper backward to its limit then tilt it down while making sure your belt is not nicking the frame, then leaving the end-stop switch in place – slight bend the metal contact on the switch forward towards the rollers as this gives you enough clearance. and lastly option 2) There are y stepper mounts out there on thingiverse you can print that will give you the clearance you need. I personally used option 1 and it worked very well.

    1. Michael,

      I did consider that option but it does lose you some bed space. I’ll add some info in on that option.

      Thanks for the feedback.

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