I created a video on YouTube that shows my build process (if there is one) and the Ender 3 upgrades I do out of the box.
Maker Steve Ender 3 Build Part 1
Maker Steve Ender 3 Build Part 2
Maker Steve Ender 3 Build Part 3
Just finished another Ultimate Guide on building the Creality CR-10 or CR-10S
A few months back and did a guide on how to Silence your Printer with Vibration Dampers.
The upgrade was performed on a CR-10 that required no modification. I bought several new Enders from eBay at a pretty good deal. Why not upgrade them as I build right out of the box? Not so much. For the Y-Axis, you have to cut the hotbed carrier. Also, in the guide, I pointed out the two types of NEMA 17 Dampers, ones without nubs and ones with nubs.
WHY? Because prints that are stuck suck and having a non-removable surface prevents you from using the freezer.
Time to complete: 45 minutes
Pros: Your prints won’t get stuck to the bed (But if they do: https://makersteve.com/2018/03/26/help-my-print-is-stuck-to-my-print-surface/)
No more tape, no more glue.
Cons: Limited temperature, above 70c or so magnetic effect is lost.
Magnetic Build Surface – I bought this would recommend this from Creality. The one a purchased is a tad smaller that the print bed.
Alcohol, and not the type you drink.
Razor Blades, quite a few of them as they get gummed up from the glue.
Here we go… Victim is shown below.
Heat it up.. I went with 80C.
The corners should start easily.
Work it off a bit at a time.
Just like that.
You can cool the bed down if you like.
Now start shaving off the glue. This will take a while.
Keep working it, clear the razor after it collects a lot of glue.
Work a section at a time.
Get out the Alcohol.
Pour some on the build plate and work it around. It is okay to let it sit for a few minutes to break down the glue.
Scrap around a bit with the putty knife, you can spread the alcohol out.
Scratch at it.
Remove the glue.
This will take a few iterations.
scrape it with a razor.
Wipe with a paper towel.
Repeat; scrape, razor, wipe, add alcohol.
That will work.
Here is the new build surface magnet.
Flip it over to reveal the protective paper over the adhesive.
Peel it back.
Place one end on the build plate and pull the backing as you go.
Press firmly, left to right as you pull the backing off.
Moving right along.
Then put the magnetic build surface on the top.
Mission Complete. Pretty good upgrade for just a few bucks.
There is a ton of other useful stuff on Makersteve.com and more coming every week.
Be sure to check out my Ultimate guide to troubleshooting underextrusion, ripples, waves and stringing in 3D printers
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